Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Day 9: Siena and an Italian Cooking Lesson

Siena, another ancient Tuscan town, was first settled by the Etruscans in 3-400 BC. The town symbol for Siena is the image of the she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome. Siena was supposedly founded by Senius, the son of Remus, hence the traditional use of the Romulus/Remus legend.

Siena did not prosper during Roman times, since it was not strategically located near any major military installations or commercial highways. But in the 13th Century, Siena gained prominence as a center of trade.

There are 3 main attractions in Siena: 
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, begun in the 12th Century and completed in 1380. The exterior of this large Gothic cathedral is comprised of distinctive alternating bands of white and dark-green marble.

  
The interior is quite ornate, and the floors covered in distinctive mosaics depicting various stories from the Bible. In addition, the Cathedral holds many distinctive marble statues and works of art from Medieval and Renaissance times.
 
Left, looking to the entrance to the Cathedral. Right, the elaborately decorated altar.

One of the many ornate mosaic floors in the Cathedral.

The beautifully painted Chapel of St. John the Baptist within the Cathedral.

The second main attraction in Siena is the Piazza del Campo, a large shell-shaped public square around which the town traditionally held twice-yearly horse races. 

The piazza is stone and brick, divided into 9 equal sections by flush granite partitions, each section reserved for the families of the Council of Nine, or the nine ruling families of Siena. From these sections, each family would fly flags with their coat of arms and would cheer their favorite horses on to victory.

Tower of City Hall in Piazza del Campo.

And the third main attraction is the Fonte Gaia (Fountain of Joy.) Originally completed in 1419, this fountain was the city’s main source of fresh drinking water.


Back at Il Villino, it is time for our Italian Cooking Lesson.

Ginny and Fiamma are our chefs/cooking instructors.

We are aproned and ready to learn the finer aspects of Italian cooking, although this group looks better prepared for an Italian "Drinking Class."

First on the assembly agenda will be last on the menu: Panna Cotta with Chocolate Sauce. Tim is checking the gelatin sheets to see if they are ready to be added to the warmed whipped cream.

Gelatin added to the warm cream, then poured into ramekins where they are allowed to develop a delicate skim, and then placed in the refrigerator to await the final touch of chocolate sauce.

Next, the white potatoes are peeled to make gnocchi.

"Odore" is the base for ragoux. This is onions, carrots, and celery--all chopped and sauteed in liberal olive oil. When the vegetables are clear, the mixture of Tuscan sausage, ground pork, and ground beef will be added.

The ladies compare notes. They are so out of their league!

Garlic, fresh sage, and fresh Rosemary will be finely chopped to flavor the chicken.

Chicken pieces--thighs and drumsticks, chosen for their higher fat content to enhance flavor--will be sauteed in scant olive oil until golden brown. Then the chopped spices and oven-baked, pitted black olives will be added for ultimate flavor.

Rob minces the garlic/Rosemary/sage mixture to the point of "powder."

The chopped herbs are added to the sauteed chicken. The olives go in last because of their strong flavor.

Meanwhile, the diced potatoes boil to a point slightly less than "al dente" for the gnocchi.

Last but not least, the delicate zucchini flowers will be stuffed with fresh mozzarella and anchovy pieces, then fried in hot peanut oil for our appetizers. You cannot imagine how good these tasted!

Table is set.

The ragoux/meat mixture (simmered for 90 minutes) garnishes the hand-made gnocchi. Incredible flavor!


The chicken with garlic/Rosemary/sage/black olives. The crowning achievement of our Italian meal!

Oh, and the Panna Cotta with Chocolate sauce did not last long enough to be photographed. But trust me, it was perfect!

Monday, July 30, 2012

Day 8: Montepulciano

Montepulciano is a walled town in Tuscany whose origins date to the 3rd or 4th century BC in the Etruscan period. In Roman times, Montepulciano was a garrison town guarding one of the main highways connecting Florence and Rome.

The American Invasion of Montepulciano 2012.

Narrow Medieval stone streets with quaint shops.

Not sure what prompted this shopkeeper to post this notice in his window--did someone misbehave in his store?

 
One of many pretty churches in Montepulciano.

Charming medieval doorway.

In Medieval times, Montepulciano was almost constantly at war with neighboring towns, all ruled by different Italian families.

Palazzo Tarugi on Piazza Grande. This was home to one of Montepulciano's influential families.

Well with ornately carved arch next to Palazzo Tarugi.

After the unification of Italy, Montepulciano remained an important agricultural center specializing in production of cheese, pasta, honey and of course wine.

Vista of surrounding valleys and vineyards from the crest of Montepulciano.

We look like happy tourists, but we are sweating like pigs after the climb through the steep streets of Montepulciano.

Beer 6E, glass of wine 4.5E, proscuitto and assorted cheeses 11E. A shady terrace, a lovely breeze, good friends--priceless!

Bell tower and facade of the Communal Palace on Piazza Grande.

The local grape called Vino Nobile (not to be confused with the Montepulciano grape) yields wine
considered to be among the finest wine in Italy today

Wine cellar of La Cantina di Redi. These oak barrels are massive.

Wine tasting at Cantina di Redi.

Sold! Ready for our walk back down the hill to the car.


Examples of the lovely Italian architecture in Montepulciano.

This stately old lion guards the gate of one of the Palazzos.

Part of the Medieval fortification of the old town.

Back at Il Villino, it's time to prepare dinner. Gina's Italian heritage is sparked by her presence in the land of her ancestors. She is cooking her grandmother's recipe for meatballs in tomato sauce.

Tim, Susan and Mike have set the table and served salads.

The battle between northern and southern Italian cuisine: Meatballs in marinara sauce and chicken in white wine cream sauce with mushrooms over pasta. Italian comfort food.

 We worked up an appetite tromping up and down those hills in Montepulciano!

 My plate in the battle of northern and southern Italian cuisine. And the winner? Me! I ate it all!

 After-dinner stories and laughs. Kathy, Mark, Bryan

 Gina, Brian, Susan

Bryan and Rob.

Rob, Mike, Tim. Tim declared today a "10" and we all finished the evening tired but with appetites fully satisfied.